On the mouth of Mlynicka valley, at the foothills of west High Tatras, rests Slovakia’s most popular mountain retreat, the glacial lake of Strbske or Strbske Pleso as it is widely known. Surrounded by huge Norway spruces and tall firs, with the bright red September pomes of an occasional rowan tree popping out of the somber forest, Strbske Pleso exudes an old-money vibe that is deeply rooted in its past aristocratic clientele, the Swiss-style hotels that line its banks, and the homonymous ski resort, on the slopes of Velko Solisko; its iconic ski jump tower looming over the sea of whistling treetops like a monster.

I could sit by the water for hours watching the clouds racing on the glimmering surface, occasionally interrupted by the wake of the red-keeled wooden boats while the shore across fades in and out, engulfed in a mystical haze. Walking around Strebske Pleso takes about an hour and it’s one of the finest strolls a traveler can take. But that’s just one thing out of many that you can enjoy in this beautiful all-year-round destination. One can use Strbske as a base for numerous hiking adventures to the nearby peaks and valleys, or retreat to one of the fine spas around the lake and take some precious time off.

When winter approaches, the twenty-meter-deep lake freezes over, for more than 150 days and a white blanket covers the surrounding woods and mountain tops. The perfect place to spend a fairy tale Christmas, indulging in the local cuisine and skiing the local well-groomed slopes. Strbske’s ski resort has eight and a half kilometers of easy and intermediate slopes. Not the biggest around, but the snow quality is good and it’s great for families.

Hotels and Architecture

The local architecture is characterized by a striking duality. On one hand, there are 19th and early 20th century hotels of neo-gothic and belle époque styles, and on the other, multi-story buildings of brutal architecture, built in the late 60s and 70s. From the old era, the most prominent are Hotel Solisko and the Grand Hotel Kempinski which consists of three older hotels. From the moderns, those that definitely stand out are the triangular Patria Hotel by the lake, and Panorama Hotel which looks like a pyramid from one side and an inverted pyramid from the other, both works of Zdenek Rihak — a Czech architect well-known for his Brutalist designs.

Grand Hotel Kempinski

Hiking in Strbske Pleso

Hiking is huge in High Tatras, and Strbske Pleso has been a hiking and mountaineering destination since the 1870s when the first lodges opened and the railway connected the region. The Slovak massif has a wide array of high peaks accessed through a grid of deep valleys. There are endless routes and combinations for all kinds of hikers and mountaineers, from novices to the most experienced. Numerous refuges offer accommodation and great food for very reasonable prices, at least by European standards. The Slovak signing system is one of the best, and all the trails are very well maintained Granite can be hard though, so it’s better to change your sneakers for proper stiff-soled hiking boots and shoes, especially if you plan on venturing beyond the tree line.

Trails Around Strbske Pleso

Predne Solisko

Distance: 5km

Elevation gain: 830m

The closest peak to Strbske Pleso is a great vantage point with unobstructed views of the lake and the surrounding plains, as well as the neighboring peaks. The blue trail that will take you there starts at the northern part of the lake, below the ski tower, and ascends for an hour and a half to the refuge of chata pod Soliskom (1840m) where you can have a short break. Next, you follow the red trail along the ridge which leads you to the peak of Predne Solisko (2093m) within an hour. If the route is a bit too much, you can make it shorter and skip a few vertical meters by taking the ski lift to Chata Pod Soliskom and walking from there.

Popradske Pleso

Distance: 10km

Elevation gain: 300m

The national park of High Tatras is so pristine and has such a natural beauty that sometimes it’s difficult to choose where to go. Visiting Popradske Pleso though should definitely be on your list. This scenic trail starts just outside Strbske Pleso (past the stall market and the pedestrian bridge) and leads to the most astonishingly beautiful tarn of High Tatras, deep in a lush coniferous forest. The red trail that will take you there, crosses the south slopes of the mighty Hreben bast — an imposing ridgeline whose summit is called Satan, and descends to the bottom of Mensgusovska valley and finally Popradske Pleso. The whole hike should take around two hours, depending on your pace. During winter you will have to change to the green trail at some point, but the trails are parallel and both lead to the same place. The popular refuge of Horsky Hotel is right on the north shore overshadowed by the valleys’ rugged peaks, casting its reflection on the emerald water. Perhaps the most epic scenery in High Tatras.

Rysy

Distance: 21.5km

Elevation gain: 1300m

Rysy (2501m) is one of the most popular peaks along with Krivan and Gerlachovsky, High Tatras’ highest peak. It is right on the border of Slovakia with Poland and you can climb there from both countries. The trail is the same till Popradske Pleso but before reaching Horsky Hotel you take the blue trail northbound for 30 minutes and then turn right at the red trail that leads to Zabie Pleso, another tarn after which the trail turns steeper and steeper towards Chata pod Rysmi (refuge at 2250m). There are via ferrata sections that are exposed and not suitable for people with a fear of heights. Especially since most ferratas in High Tatras have no safety line to get attached to. On average, it takes around two hours and something from Popradske to the refuge, and another 45 minutes to an hour for the peak.

Koprovsky

Distance: 20km

Elevation gain: 1200m

Another beautiful peak, even deeper in Mengusovska valley with amazing views and a magnificent route leading there. Again you have to go to Popradske Pleso and before getting there turn left on the blue trail which you will hike for almost two and a half hours out of the tree line and up the plateau where big and small Hincovo lakes (1945m) lie. The location is surrounded by towering walls in all directions except south. It is imposing and humbling at the same time. From Hincovo Lakes, the blue trail starts ascending towards the Koprovske sedlo (pass), and from there, you follow the red trail along the ridge, all the way to Koprovsky mountain peak. There are a few exposed sections but unlike Rysy there is no via ferrata or anything else that demands something more than a bit of scrambling. The views of the three surrounding valleys and the peaks across them will reward the strenuous effort you put to get there.

Things to Do in Strbske Pleso

• Rent a wooden boat from the small pier and have an idyllic boat ride across the lake with your other half or your friends.
• Enjoy one of the numerous wellness programs. Slovakia is famous for its spas and practically every hotel in the area has a wellness center with many kinds of saunas, steam baths, and therapeutic pools.
• Take the local railway and visit the quaint towns of Stary Smokovec and Tatranska Lomnicka for a bit of shopping and some nice places to eat.
• Take a walk to the Jazierka lásky the pools of love just five minutes from the central public parking.
• Enjoy winter sports, including skiing, sledding, and dog sledding.

How To Get There

Slovakia has reliable public transportation. There are frequent buses and trains from the city of Poprad every day. Poprad also has an international airport and bus/train connections to and from everywhere in the country. Alternatively, you can rent a car to save valuable holiday time and be more independent; the roads are mostly good.